Starting in the executive lounge in Manchester with a bottle of prosecco, what better way to begin our 6,000 mile journey.
After 3 smooth flights, over 24 hours of travelling and 26 minutes of sleep we finally arrive at our first destination (for today at least), Hakodate on the northern island of Hokkaido.
Sat 20th April
After an epic 15 hour sleep, it is probably time to go and indulge in a bit of Hakodate.
We take a cable car up to the top of mount Hakodate, the views of the bay are immense. You can see the main island of Honshu as well as Hokkaido.
There’s a Michelin recommended bar at the top where Jill and I share some Sake and an ice cream sundae, which are both delicious.
You can also see a fort in the shape of a star but it is a bit too far away.
In the evening we head into the centre of Hakodate to Damion Yokocho. It’s a stunning network of tiny little restaurants with only enough room for 4 covers at the most!
We have a pre-drink in Shell Bar where the locals are extremely impressed with our itinerary. They give us free sake and a pastry that contains cherry blossom, it’s beautiful.
We then sample one of the larger restaurants, this has enough room for 5 people including us. Language is tricky and we end up with some seafood but not entirely sure what it is. Some of it is quite “crunchy” but we didn’t get that Friday feeling.
(The food at Daimon Yokocho)
(The food at Daimon Yokocho)
Sun 21st April
Hakodate - Sendai via Hirosaki
Brisk walk to the train station at the ungodly hour of 9am, not sure I've ever checked out of a hotel room that early or even early or even on time.
We take in the incredible morning fish market but draw the line at having pictures taken with 6 foot crabs as other tourists were, ok they were only 2 foot but still the biggest I've ever seen. The journey to Sendai was remarkably easy. At Hakodate local train station, we reserve tickets for the bullet train and the gentleman behind the counter gives us a timetable of the 3 trains we need to get. All perfectly timed within 13 minutes of each other. First we have to get a local train to Shin-Hakodate, the start of the bullet train (Shinkansen). The Shinkansen takes about an hour to Aomori where we change to go to Hirosaki.
The plan is to drop off the cases at the lockers as we have to come back here to carry on our onward journey to Sendai. Unfortunately they are all full! We have to take a chance and hope there are some at Hirosaki. We get to Hirosaki and noooooooo, they are all taken too! Heartbreak. Then Jill spots a couple in the same predicament as us, they start sprinting to another side of the station. Like Wonder Woman Jill follows and they find some more lockers! Jill like a young salmon jumps high above the pack and swoops in, gets the last one in front of these hapless Japanese pensioners. Not today Mr. & Mrs. Miyagi. There was a moment of guilt but we needed this, we had to get to the Cherry Blossom festival at all costs.
The festival is gorgeous, the sun is shining and the blossoms are out. There's a cornucopia of different street food and plenty of alcohol, of which we greatly approve. There's thousands of people of all ages, politely enjoying the day, there are picnics galore and we even have time to stop for a Cherry Blossom sparkling wine. Like everything here, it is super sweet and delicious.
Our onward journey is a trip back to Aomori for our second trip on the bullet train. Just the 90 minutes to travel the next 180 miles to Sendai. The train is unbelievable, so quiet, luxurious and so comfortable. You don't want to get off and everyone has reserved seats so there's never any hassle. The quite astounding thing was, it was about 7 minutes late. Everyone has an off day I suppose.
Once in Sendai, it is a 5 minute walk to the hotel. It is quite compact but an excellent standard. Dinner is the traditional difficulty of trying to work out what ANYTHING is. Nearly everything is in Japanese. The chef comes out and talks us through a couple of things. Vegetarian does not translate very well over here. I choose something which looks fantastic only to be told it is horse?! We settle on some kind of dumplings with satay, raw salmon in vine leaves and seaweed and beef teriyaki. All of which are sumptuous. We loved it so much we ordered a second round.
Mon 22nd April
First and only full day in Sendai has to be used wisely. Early start and head to the nearest car rental establishment, a measly 2 minute walk from the hotel. There are hundreds in this city. We set off on the road to Fukushima, where the tsunami hit the nuclear power station in 2011 and absolutely devastated the surrounding areas. It is a 360 mile round trip and the land is largely flat so we get an excellent feel for the Japanese countryside. The radiation levels are still so high that miles and miles of the land around the power station are not safe to return.
We venture into the town of Namie, which has been designated safe to return by the Fukushima government. It is like the aftermath of a zombie apocalypse, there is this eerie quietness with barely a human in sight. Just the remnants of small villages. The only people that seem to be doing any trade are the petrol stations. Most of the buildings are derelict and have been looted, whole motorbike shops still remain with hoards of machines gathering (radiation) rust. We had been told not to get out of our car before we went so we had to keep moving at all times. We had the roads to ourselves so we could crawl along and this allowed us to see everything. There’s a school, which we had heard only had 6 children enrolled. It was so sad.
(Deserted school)
As we got closer and closer to the exclusion zone, the volume of trucks greatly increased as well as the volume of men in full radiation suits. We enter the black zone on the map, this is as close we can get to the exclusion zone. Every other road is cordoned off and stopping is not allowed. Even the traffic lights have permanent flashing amber lights to keep the traffic moving. Such a heartbreaking place that needs to be seen to be believed, there are huge plots dotted all around that contain thousands of 2 metre square black bags. Within these bags are the radioactive material that has so far been collected.
(Bags of radioactive dust)
The journey back is a sobering 1 of deep reflection, getting through the tolls is difficult as there is not only the physical barriers but language also. In the evening we head out into Sendai, for a Monday night, there are hundreds of Japanese men walking round in suits getting absolutely shitfaced. Most of the bars are all you can drink in 2 hours and within each door there is a labyrinth of other bars. It is crazy and a good warm up for Tokyo.
(The food in Sendai)
Tues 23rd April
A slightly more leisurely start than normal, a quick tour of the temples that were destroyed during WWII. And subsequently rebuilt in the 1970s. Slightly awkward feel but the Japanese are way too polite to make an issue of it. The temples were a mausoleum for Date Masamune, legendary Edo warlord and founder of Sendai.
Later in the day, we embark on our third bullet train experience. Now we’re heading to Tokyo. It’s a smooth journey and we have to change to a local rail service in Tokyo. This takes us into Shinjuku train station, THE busiest train station in the world. We make the rest of the journey to the hotel on foot. This city is wild. Imagine Vegas but with Japanese writing and much bigger. The crazy lights and sounds come from all angles, there are floors and floors of every type of amusement going. It is literally an assault on the senses.
(Shinjuku)
Wed 24th April
Finally, a lie in! We can actually get up at a time of our choosing. The plan is to get a nice brunch and head to Harajuku. This is where Tony Robinson visited and dressed up in absolutely outrageous clothes. Harajuku is renowned for its colorful street art and fashion scene, with quirky vintage clothing stores and cosplay shops along Takeshita Street.
(Takeshita Street)
The street is absolutely crazy, the Japanese bloody love sugar and pink, so much pink. The ice creams are of epic proportion.
In the evening we head over to Shibuya, this has the famous zebra crossing that is probably the biggest in the world. It is just silly the number of people trying to cross this at midnight on a Wednesday, why?!
We also find time for a drink on the 40th floor of the Cerulean Tower, the cocktails are amazing and the view is incredible.
(Cerulean Tower)
Thurs 25th April
We decide to visit to the original “cat cafe”, this is also based in Shinjuku. It is over 2 floors and there are over 50?! cats. You pay for the time you spend there and can also buy tea or coffee. I have been to some weird places on my travels but this is without doubt the strangest. Before entering, we enter the disinfectant chamber, which is quite invasive but reassuring.
(This guy was enormous, about twice the size of a normal cat)
(Why so serious.)
The space is very small and there are only a few cats (all asleep, and no approach is allowed when they are asleep), the smell as expected is rather pungent. We head downstairs, where the majority of the cats are. A veritable smorgasbord of wild and wonderful breeds. A big range in ages from the lively adolescents to the elder statesmen. It is deathly quiet and there are some of strangest people I’ve ever seen just sat staring at sleeping cats. No interaction. We felt on display the more we progressed into this inner sanctum. We take a seat by this beautiful young lady, who is called Apollo. She is a Scottish Fold and so gentle and affectionate.
(Getting acquainted with Apollo)
Then the treats come out! We are then inundated with most polite cats I’ve ever come across, the Japanese way after all.
(Treat time)
In the evening, we head out to the more suburban Asakusa for some for real life Mario Kart racing under the bright lights of the Tokyo streets.
I’ve said this already on this trip but this was again 1 of THE craziest things I’ve done. Weaving in and out of traffic across an 8 lane highway with buses and lorries travelling past at breakneck speeds. Insane but so much fun. Absolutely loved it.
(View from the Tokyo Skytree)
Fri 26th April
Everything about today is crazy, from the 5 full floors of arcade games, with a full floor dedicated to group photo booths, to the Robot Restaurant.
(Jill having a go at driving a train)
The Robot Restaurant is madness personified and sums up the sheer craziness of Japan. I could never put into words what we saw tonight. I will just post a deluge of pictures.
After all those antics, we somehow ended up in a Karaoke bar until 5am, blasting out hits such as Last Christmas, Bohemian Rhapsody and Backstreet Boys seminal hit, “I want it that way”.
Sat 27th April
This was a morning to forget, check out time was 11am so this was a real struggle after the previous evening’s festivities. Spent most of the day huddled in the hotel lobby clutching a green tea while we waited for our train to Kyoto.
It is the start of “golden” week in Japan, where every single Japanese person goes on holiday. Shinjuku is not only the busiest train station in the world but it’s the busiest day of the year. It felt like the apocalypse.
When we arrive in Kyoto later in the evening, Jill’s friends from Manchester, Ben and Laura are actually staying there too. So they take us for a fantastic meal a stone’s throw from the hotel. Despite them forgetting the tuna starter, it was still a delight.
Sunday 28th April
After a hectic day, a lazy stroll into the centre of Kyoto is in order. There is a market, which is basically the length of the Trafford Centre but the gap in the middle fits about 3 people. And it’s packed!!! We watch master chefs preparing oysters and clams, it is quite hypnotic. There is so much food, and it looks incredible. Apart from the octopus balls complete with tentacles. Also, there is an over abundance of not-so-cheap tat.
(Oyster prep)
(Octopus balls)
(Sparrow)
In the evening we head back to the Nishi market in the centre of Kyoto looking for some local Japanese cuisine that is fitting of the Imperial capital. The restaurant we attempt to go to, well....Google had a hard time finding it. Either it was closed or there was a secret entrance only available to the next level samurai masters. Apologies sensai, we have failed you.
There are plenty of other options and we have the pleasure of getting 2 seats at a Teppanyaki. It is fascinating watching the chef at work. We are served are huge plate of vegetables and they are probably the best that I have ever tasted. I think it was the soy, delicious. For the main I try the local specialty, which is a kind of pancake but not the kind we have ever had. It is filled with meat but on top is lashings of barbecue sauce, drizzled with mayonnaise and a good helping of pepper and chilli. Needless to say, I approved. It is the first meal in nearly 2 weeks when I have actually felt full. The portion sizes are extremely small in Japan and I have woken up most mornings very hungry. Very strange. The only blot on the evening is that there is also another English couple sat next to us and their chat is embarrassing and brainless. They still manage to thank their hosts in flawless Japanese, which came as a shock, even to them I think.
Mon 29th April
Trip to the Inari shrine, where there are literally thousands of “torii” (gates, see below) leading up to a previous emperors temple.
(Torii gate)
There are stunning views of the whole of Kyoto at the top. You can even see 1 of the biggest cities in the world in the distance, Osaka.
Tues 30th April
As it's our last day in Kyoto, we feel a quiet day of reflection is required and really get in touch with our true state of Zen. A little trip to the Masumarra park on the outskirts of Kyoto. The gardens are absolutely stunning and once you get away from the crowds and the insta-whores, we found a lovely little gazebo up the mountain with an idyllic view over Kyoto. After some quiet meditation, which allowed us to truly feel at one with our surroundings and to be ever thankful for what we've got, we treated ourselves to some limited edition Cherry Blossom Chandon Champagne. It was a delight and we'll try and get some to bring home.
(Chandon Cherry Blossom Champagne)
Back once again to try some famous Japanese meat? Yes sir! This time it is the Wagyu beef, of course you have to cook it yourself. What kind of lazy country is this?! I don't pay you so I can cook my own dinner! Honestly.
I go a tad more adventurous this time and not only order the beef but also chicken and pork. Jill is extremely worried I'll give myself food poisoning so makes sure that chicken is well and truly charcoal'd before it is ready for human consumption. She did a good job cooking the rest while I was devouring the latest prime cut of privileged cow. Again, another incredible meal. We feel that we have truly embraced the local cuisine and despite there not being a great of it, it was still remarkable.
Wed 1st May
The day after the abdication of King George, sorry Emperor Akihito, our changeover day is spent venturing to the foothills of the Bamboo Forest.
I’ve run out of superlatives for this magnificent country and we still have 2 places left! Roll on the poignant Hiroshima....
Thurs 2nd May
We had heard that our JR Railpass (bullet train 2 week pass) included the ferry, yes the ferry to Miyajima. A beautiful island about 20 minutes from the mainland of Hiroshima. Such a good deal. An idyllic island with a history far greater than just 1945. There are shrines attributed to the Edo empire stretching as far back as the 7th century. There are even gorgeous deer roaming free along the beach.
(We Met Bambi)
Later in the day we head to the Peace Park, it is extremely solemn and something doesn’t feel right, seeing all the tourists having selfies with the last remaining building after the A-bomb in 1945. I feel uneasy and a massive sense of guilt that it was our side that carried out the attack.
Fri 3rd May
Our final day in Japan is spent exploring the Kagoshima harbour, it stands in the huge shadow of an active volcano. Sakurajima is over 1000 metres tall and the last serious eruption was in 1914. It used to be an island in the middle of the bay but the latest eruption changed the island into a peninsula.
Mon 22nd April
First and only full day in Sendai has to be used wisely. Early start and head to the nearest car rental establishment, a measly 2 minute walk from the hotel. There are hundreds in this city. We set off on the road to Fukushima, where the tsunami hit the nuclear power station in 2011 and absolutely devastated the surrounding areas. It is a 360 mile round trip and the land is largely flat so we get an excellent feel for the Japanese countryside. The radiation levels are still so high that miles and miles of the land around the power station are not safe to return.
(Deserted school)
As we got closer and closer to the exclusion zone, the volume of trucks greatly increased as well as the volume of men in full radiation suits. We enter the black zone on the map, this is as close we can get to the exclusion zone. Every other road is cordoned off and stopping is not allowed. Even the traffic lights have permanent flashing amber lights to keep the traffic moving. Such a heartbreaking place that needs to be seen to be believed, there are huge plots dotted all around that contain thousands of 2 metre square black bags. Within these bags are the radioactive material that has so far been collected.
(Bags of radioactive dust)
The journey back is a sobering 1 of deep reflection, getting through the tolls is difficult as there is not only the physical barriers but language also. In the evening we head out into Sendai, for a Monday night, there are hundreds of Japanese men walking round in suits getting absolutely shitfaced. Most of the bars are all you can drink in 2 hours and within each door there is a labyrinth of other bars. It is crazy and a good warm up for Tokyo.
(The food in Sendai)
Tues 23rd April
A slightly more leisurely start than normal, a quick tour of the temples that were destroyed during WWII. And subsequently rebuilt in the 1970s. Slightly awkward feel but the Japanese are way too polite to make an issue of it. The temples were a mausoleum for Date Masamune, legendary Edo warlord and founder of Sendai.
Later in the day, we embark on our third bullet train experience. Now we’re heading to Tokyo. It’s a smooth journey and we have to change to a local rail service in Tokyo. This takes us into Shinjuku train station, THE busiest train station in the world. We make the rest of the journey to the hotel on foot. This city is wild. Imagine Vegas but with Japanese writing and much bigger. The crazy lights and sounds come from all angles, there are floors and floors of every type of amusement going. It is literally an assault on the senses.
(Shinjuku)
Wed 24th April
Finally, a lie in! We can actually get up at a time of our choosing. The plan is to get a nice brunch and head to Harajuku. This is where Tony Robinson visited and dressed up in absolutely outrageous clothes. Harajuku is renowned for its colorful street art and fashion scene, with quirky vintage clothing stores and cosplay shops along Takeshita Street.
(Takeshita Street)
The street is absolutely crazy, the Japanese bloody love sugar and pink, so much pink. The ice creams are of epic proportion.
In the evening we head over to Shibuya, this has the famous zebra crossing that is probably the biggest in the world. It is just silly the number of people trying to cross this at midnight on a Wednesday, why?!
We also find time for a drink on the 40th floor of the Cerulean Tower, the cocktails are amazing and the view is incredible.
(Cerulean Tower)
Thurs 25th April
We decide to visit to the original “cat cafe”, this is also based in Shinjuku. It is over 2 floors and there are over 50?! cats. You pay for the time you spend there and can also buy tea or coffee. I have been to some weird places on my travels but this is without doubt the strangest. Before entering, we enter the disinfectant chamber, which is quite invasive but reassuring.
(This guy was enormous, about twice the size of a normal cat)
(Why so serious.)
The space is very small and there are only a few cats (all asleep, and no approach is allowed when they are asleep), the smell as expected is rather pungent. We head downstairs, where the majority of the cats are. A veritable smorgasbord of wild and wonderful breeds. A big range in ages from the lively adolescents to the elder statesmen. It is deathly quiet and there are some of strangest people I’ve ever seen just sat staring at sleeping cats. No interaction. We felt on display the more we progressed into this inner sanctum. We take a seat by this beautiful young lady, who is called Apollo. She is a Scottish Fold and so gentle and affectionate.
(Getting acquainted with Apollo)
Then the treats come out! We are then inundated with most polite cats I’ve ever come across, the Japanese way after all.
(Treat time)
In the evening, we head out to the more suburban Asakusa for some for real life Mario Kart racing under the bright lights of the Tokyo streets.
(View from the Tokyo Skytree)
Fri 26th April
Everything about today is crazy, from the 5 full floors of arcade games, with a full floor dedicated to group photo booths, to the Robot Restaurant.
(Jill having a go at driving a train)
The Robot Restaurant is madness personified and sums up the sheer craziness of Japan. I could never put into words what we saw tonight. I will just post a deluge of pictures.
After all those antics, we somehow ended up in a Karaoke bar until 5am, blasting out hits such as Last Christmas, Bohemian Rhapsody and Backstreet Boys seminal hit, “I want it that way”.
Sat 27th April
This was a morning to forget, check out time was 11am so this was a real struggle after the previous evening’s festivities. Spent most of the day huddled in the hotel lobby clutching a green tea while we waited for our train to Kyoto.
It is the start of “golden” week in Japan, where every single Japanese person goes on holiday. Shinjuku is not only the busiest train station in the world but it’s the busiest day of the year. It felt like the apocalypse.
When we arrive in Kyoto later in the evening, Jill’s friends from Manchester, Ben and Laura are actually staying there too. So they take us for a fantastic meal a stone’s throw from the hotel. Despite them forgetting the tuna starter, it was still a delight.
Sunday 28th April
After a hectic day, a lazy stroll into the centre of Kyoto is in order. There is a market, which is basically the length of the Trafford Centre but the gap in the middle fits about 3 people. And it’s packed!!! We watch master chefs preparing oysters and clams, it is quite hypnotic. There is so much food, and it looks incredible. Apart from the octopus balls complete with tentacles. Also, there is an over abundance of not-so-cheap tat.
(Oyster prep)
(Octopus balls)
(Sparrow)
In the evening we head back to the Nishi market in the centre of Kyoto looking for some local Japanese cuisine that is fitting of the Imperial capital. The restaurant we attempt to go to, well....Google had a hard time finding it. Either it was closed or there was a secret entrance only available to the next level samurai masters. Apologies sensai, we have failed you.
There are plenty of other options and we have the pleasure of getting 2 seats at a Teppanyaki. It is fascinating watching the chef at work. We are served are huge plate of vegetables and they are probably the best that I have ever tasted. I think it was the soy, delicious. For the main I try the local specialty, which is a kind of pancake but not the kind we have ever had. It is filled with meat but on top is lashings of barbecue sauce, drizzled with mayonnaise and a good helping of pepper and chilli. Needless to say, I approved. It is the first meal in nearly 2 weeks when I have actually felt full. The portion sizes are extremely small in Japan and I have woken up most mornings very hungry. Very strange. The only blot on the evening is that there is also another English couple sat next to us and their chat is embarrassing and brainless. They still manage to thank their hosts in flawless Japanese, which came as a shock, even to them I think.
Mon 29th April
Trip to the Inari shrine, where there are literally thousands of “torii” (gates, see below) leading up to a previous emperors temple.
(Torii gate)
There are stunning views of the whole of Kyoto at the top. You can even see 1 of the biggest cities in the world in the distance, Osaka.
Tues 30th April
As it's our last day in Kyoto, we feel a quiet day of reflection is required and really get in touch with our true state of Zen. A little trip to the Masumarra park on the outskirts of Kyoto. The gardens are absolutely stunning and once you get away from the crowds and the insta-whores, we found a lovely little gazebo up the mountain with an idyllic view over Kyoto. After some quiet meditation, which allowed us to truly feel at one with our surroundings and to be ever thankful for what we've got, we treated ourselves to some limited edition Cherry Blossom Chandon Champagne. It was a delight and we'll try and get some to bring home.
(Chandon Cherry Blossom Champagne)
Back once again to try some famous Japanese meat? Yes sir! This time it is the Wagyu beef, of course you have to cook it yourself. What kind of lazy country is this?! I don't pay you so I can cook my own dinner! Honestly.
I go a tad more adventurous this time and not only order the beef but also chicken and pork. Jill is extremely worried I'll give myself food poisoning so makes sure that chicken is well and truly charcoal'd before it is ready for human consumption. She did a good job cooking the rest while I was devouring the latest prime cut of privileged cow. Again, another incredible meal. We feel that we have truly embraced the local cuisine and despite there not being a great of it, it was still remarkable.
Wed 1st May
The day after the abdication of King George, sorry Emperor Akihito, our changeover day is spent venturing to the foothills of the Bamboo Forest.
Thurs 2nd May
We had heard that our JR Railpass (bullet train 2 week pass) included the ferry, yes the ferry to Miyajima. A beautiful island about 20 minutes from the mainland of Hiroshima. Such a good deal. An idyllic island with a history far greater than just 1945. There are shrines attributed to the Edo empire stretching as far back as the 7th century. There are even gorgeous deer roaming free along the beach.
(We Met Bambi)
Later in the day we head to the Peace Park, it is extremely solemn and something doesn’t feel right, seeing all the tourists having selfies with the last remaining building after the A-bomb in 1945. I feel uneasy and a massive sense of guilt that it was our side that carried out the attack.
(Genbaku Dome, World Heritage Site)
The building now known as the A-bomb Dome. At 8.15am August 6th 1945, an American B29 bomber carried out the world's first atomic bombing. The bombing exploded 600 metres above and 160 metres southeast of the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, ripping through and instantly killing everyone in it. Due to the blast hitting almost directly above, some of the centre walls remained standing, leaving enough of the building and iron frame to be recognisable as a dome.
Later in the day, we travel to our final destination and the end of the Shinkansen, Kagoshima.
Fri 3rd May
Our final day in Japan is spent exploring the Kagoshima harbour, it stands in the huge shadow of an active volcano. Sakurajima is over 1000 metres tall and the last serious eruption was in 1914. It used to be an island in the middle of the bay but the latest eruption changed the island into a peninsula.
